Verdulería is in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, about an hour from the apartment, and our hosts call it simply the best vegetarian restaurant on the island. On Tenerife that is a more useful piece of information than it would be almost anywhere else.
Why this matters here
Canarian cooking is not vegetarian-friendly by default. The traditional menu is built on fish, rabbit, goat and pork; vegetables appear as papas arrugadas, salad and the odd stew. A vegetarian staying a week will eat well for three days and then start reading menus with a sinking feeling.
There are workarounds nearer to hand. Silogía in Garachico, ten minutes away, is the one our hosts point vegetarian guests towards first. El Amir in Puerto de la Cruz does Lebanese mezze, which is naturally generous with meat-free options.
Verdulería is the destination version.
Make a day of the capital
An hour each way is too far for dinner alone. Santa Cruz is worth a day: the Auditorio on the waterfront, the market at Nuestra Señora de África, the museums, and shops that do not exist anywhere else on the island.
It also sits next to La Laguna, the old capital and a UNESCO site, and below Anaga. Two of those three in one day is a good use of the drive.
What vegetarian Canarian food does exist
It is worth knowing the dishes that are meat-free by default, because they turn up everywhere and will get you through a week.
Papas arrugadas with both mojos. Garbanzas — chickpea stew — though it is often made with pork, so ask. Queso asado, grilled island goat cheese, usually served with mojo or palm honey. Pimientos de padrón. Gofio escaldado, a thick paste of toasted grain flour whipped with stock. Salads with local avocado and tomato.
Order several of those to share and you have a proper Canarian meal without a compromise in sight.
Practicalities
An hour each way from San Marcos. Santa Cruz has paid underground car parks, which are worth using rather than trying to park on the street in the centre. And check the opening hours before committing to the drive.